Good old incandescent light bulbs used to account for up to one-quarter of your electricity bill. Simply by replacing your light bulbs, you can cut the amount you spend on lighting by up to 80%.

  • What to consider when buying and replacing light bulbs?

    • All energy saving light bulbs and LED bulbs are in energy efficiency class A...A++, whereas improved halogen light bulbs are usually class C or D. This means that a halogen light bulb of class C needs almost three times as much electricity as an energy saving light bulb of class A.
    • When buying a light bulb, check the luminous flux (in lumens – lm) of the bulb on the label. For instance, a luminous flux of 700–750 lm corresponds to a 60 W incandescent bulb and can be created using a 33–48 W halogen light bulb, and an 11–12 W energy saving light bulb or LED bulb.
    • Check the colour temperature (in kelvins – K) of light bulbs. The lower the value, the warmer and more relaxing the light (warm white 2700–3000 K, white 3500 K, cold white >4000 K). Warm light is usually chosen for living rooms, and cold light for office spaces. If you want a bulb that can be dimmed, check the label to find out if your chosen energy saving light bulb or LED bulb can be dimmed.
    • The shorter the service life of a lamp, the worse its environmental impact . The service lives of lamps: normal incandescent bulb – 1,000 hours, halogen bulb – 500–3,000 hours, energy-saving bulb – 6,000–20,000 hours, LED bulb – 25,000–50,000 hours.
    • You should choose a model with a higher expected number of on/off cycles rather than a normal energy saving light bulb for places where you switch the light on and off more than three times a day.
    • When you buy light bulbs to be used outdoors or in a sauna, you should check that the ambient temperature is marked on the package, because not all energy-saving and LED bulbs tolerate extreme temperatures.


Wasting energy on unnecessary heating is a common occurrence – we heat empty rooms and maintain room temperatures when no one is at home.

  • How to save energy on heating

    • The heating costs of a building depends on its size, architectural design, heating system and so on. Compact rectangular buildings are the most energy-efficient.
    • Excess heating can be detected and reduced with the help of various energy saving devices. Automation of the heating system can save 5–25% on energy costs.
    • Having a comfortable internal climate in rooms means keeping an air temperature of about 18–22 °C during the heating season. In order to maintain temperatures like this in Estonia, rooms have to be heated on average for eight months a year.
    • If your radiators have thermostats, a reduction of temperature by 1 degree will reduce your heating costs by 5%.
    • Heating costs can be reduced by installing thermostatic valves on radiators, regularly ventilating the radiators and keeping their inner surfaces clean of scale.
    • At Estonia's latitude, solar panel systems using solar energy can meet about 40–70% of the need for heating household water.
    • Because they use heat from the environment, the amount of heat or cold generated by heat pumps is many times greater than the amount of electrical energy used – the ratio is expressed as a coefficient of performance (COP). Heat pumps generate 2–5 kWh of heat per kWh electricity consumed, so their average COP is 2–5.
    • More about heat pumps »


The majority of buildings in Estonia are not energy efficient. The annual heating requirements of an average building range from 160 kWh/m² to 260 kWh/m².

  • Read about the basics of insulation

    • Insulating the whole building and replacing doors and windows will cut your heating costs by up to 50%.
    • Wall insulation may result in a 16–30% saving on energy costs, as additional insulation of the outer walls will save you an average of 50–120 kWh for each 1 m² of wall a year.
    • Roof and attic insulation may result in a 5–23% saving on energy costs, as insulating the area under the roof will save you an average of 40–80 kWh for each 1 m² of insulated area a year. Insulating the roof and the attic of an old building will usually lower thermal conductivity from approximately 1 W/(m2K) to as little as 0.15—0.2 W/(m2K).
    • Cellar insulation may result in a 6–12% saving on energy costs, as insulating the basement or cellar ceiling will save you an average of 50 kWh for each 1 m2 of insulated area a year. Attention should be paid to cellar windows and adequate ventilation; in a non-heated cellar, heating and cold water pipes should have at least 50 mm insulation.
    • Excellent results in lowering heat losses from buildings can be achieved by sealing old windows, replacing broken glass and badly hung doors or installing new triple-glazed windows and well insulated doors and balcony doors. This may save almost 15% of the heat consumed, because replacing wooden windows with triple glazed windows will save you an average of 200–300 kWh for 1 m2 of window. Installing a heat recuperation ventilation system could save you 900 kWh a year at an air replacement rate of 0.4 times per hour. The electricity consumption of the ventilators must be added to this.

Energy saving devices

We often have appliances on standby in our homes at the time we don't actually use them. The energy consumption of older appliances may be so excessive that they should be replaced with newer ones.

  • How to detect a waste of energy

    • The energy consumption of various appliances can be checked using meters and monitors, which allow us to analyse the energy use of the appliances and find ways to save energy. Such devices include thermometers, electricity and gas meters, socket meters, electricity consumption monitors and thermal cameras.
    • Special direct energy saving devices have been designed for the specific purpose of saving energy at home. These include extension cords with a switch and remote switches, programmable thermostats, standby mode recognition devices, door/window sensors and home automation that in addition to other convenience and security services allow you to check the energy consumption in your home from any place in the world.
    • Energy can also be saved using indirect energy saving devices. These include light intensity regulators, timers, motion or infra-red sensors and twilight sensors; some of these devices have other purposes but indirectly they also help save energy.

    Information on the energy consumption of various household appliances is available from their energy label. When choosing a new appliance for your home, check the energy label – the higher the rating (A+++ or A++), the less energy the appliance uses.

Energy performance certificate

An energy performance certificate describes the energy consumption of a building. It is a document showing how much energy is spent on heating, electricity, heating water, etc. The certificate gives the building an energy efficiency class. The higher the energy efficiency class, such as A or B, the less money is spent on energy. When selling or renting an apartment or building, the seller or owner is required to present an energy performance certificate at the request of the buyer or lessee for houses built since 2009.

  • Eesti Energia has issued over 1,500 energy performance certificates – you can obtain one from us quickly and conveniently
  • We collect all the necessary energy consumption data
  • We report energy performance data to the national register for construction works
  • The certificate is issued within two working days after receiving the data
  • The energy performance certificate is valid for 10 years.

Energy audit

Did you know that you could save as much as 50% of the energy you consume? To do this you need to find out how much energy is used in your home and on what, and where the building loses energy unnecessarily. The energy audit offered by Eesti Energia will help you do that.

From the results of the energy audit, we offer you possible energy saving measures, indicating the estimated cost of the work, the savings you could make and the payback time of your investment.

For apartment buildings, the final report includes the information pack "From Energy Audit to Renovated Home", which contains information on the steps and actions you should take, from applying for a loan to finding a designer and formalising documents.

  • We map the entire energy consumption in your home (on water, electricity, gas and heating)
  • We measure the micro-climate in the building so we can make precise calculations on how much energy you could save by doing renovation work
  • We assess the external elements of the building and their ability to hold warmth
  • We draw up an energy balance sheet for your building
  • We review the current state of the building's utility systems
  • We identify the main sites of energy loss and suggest ways of preventing the losses

Thermal inspection

A thermal inspection is one way to find and identify possible heat losses. The thermal image of the building taken using an infra-red camera shows the temperatures in different colours.

Analysis of the images helps us to assess the technical condition of the building and locate any heat leaks. A thermal inspection provides a quick overview of the building's condition and of any work needed, and can also be used to verify the quality of completed construction projects.

A thermal inspection can only give precise results if the difference between the internal and external temperatures is at least 15°C. Where the temperature difference is smaller, the thermal image contrast will be too low for any analysis. The internal and external walls must be dry, and not exposed to direct sunlight during the measuring.